This sport really took off in Todra Gorge back in 1977, thanks to a group of French climbers who opened the classic West Pillar route. Now, nearly 50 years later, the area is huge! There are over four hundred routes, and the number of climbers visiting keeps growing.
Route Difficulty
You’ll find climbs for almost every skill level here:
Easiest Climb: Look for the single degree 3 route on the north edge.
Main Range: The rest of the routes go from 5+ all the way up to 8b.
Most Common: You’ll mostly find routes rated VI and VII.
Length: The climbs vary greatly, from quick 25-meter routes up to massive 300-meter ascents.
Where to Climb (The Areas)
The routes are grouped into nearly thirty different climbing areas!
They are spread out over about 2 kilometers between the El Mansour hotel and the Small Gorge.
These are the most important routes:
Plage D’el Mansour (El Mansour Beach)
This climbing area is super easy to spot- it’s right across from the El Mansour Hotel.
It faces the sunrise, so you get morning sun and a beautiful view looking out over the palm trees. This cliff is huge, about 240 meters (over 780 feet) tall.
You can pick between short routes or really long ones. A few of the climbs even start down in the river. Just know that when you’re done, you always have to rappel down to get back to the bottom.
Aiguille du gué (Ford needle)
Keep an eye out for the ‘Needle’- it’s that 80-meter tall rock pillar tucked right behind the El Mansour Hotel on the west side. When you get to the top, the views are stunning; you can see the whole gorge and the palm trees below. You can either rappel back down or actually walk down from the top.
Pilier du Couchant (Pillar of the Setting Sun)
You won’t miss this one! You can see this pillar from far away. It’s just after you cross the river at the ford, sitting on the other side. Since it faces west, it’s often in the shade, so it can feel a bit cooler. The routes here are long and really excellent, and the rock quality is superb.
Dalle des Hollandais (Dutch Slab)
You’ll find this spot just before you reach Les Roches Hotel. If you like long routes, this is a good place. Be ready for shade- the rock is super hard, and you won’t get any sun here. Also, make sure you have a 60-meter rope. Just a warning: because the tourist buses stop nearby, you might have to deal with some noise and exhaust smoke while you climb.
Secteur Satanique (Satanic Area)
This is the very last climbing area you hit before you get to Les Roches Hotel. Since it faces west, it stays shady most of the time. When you finish your climb, you’ll need to rappel down.
Secteur de Meuk, Rive Droite (Meuk area, Right bank)
This area is right at the narrowest point of the gorge, close to the cave- that’s why some people call it the ‘Gorges Exit.’ Be warned, it gets very cold here! The existing routes are quite old, but there’s still a chance to set up some new ones if you’re looking for a project.
Secteur de Meuk, Rive Gauche (Meuk area, West bank)
This area is right in the narrowest part of the gorge, near that little building with the generator. Because it faces west and the air flows right through here, it’s in the shade all day and gets extremely cold. Fun fact: This is where the first 8a route in all of Africa was opened- it’s called ‘Meuk’!
Les Jardins (The Gardens)
This area is located right as you exit the gorge, opening up onto fields of alfalfa and wheat with a few palm trees. It gets lots of sun here! You only need a 45-meter rope for the rappel down.
Corridor n’Aït Ba Ali or Van Gülich area
This is the Corridor n’Aït Ba Ali, also sometimes called the Van Gülich area. It’s located opposite the gorge exit, over on the left side. It’s a very tall wall that catches the sun nicely in the morning. You get a great view of the gorges from here, and there are still spots where you could open new climbing routes.
La Traînée Blanche (The White Trail)
This is an ocher (yellow-orange) wall that you can spot easily because it has a bright white trail running down it. It faces southwest, so it’s very tall and gets tons of sun. About twenty new routes were set up here just a few years ago.
Mur des Poissons Sacrés (The Sacred Fishes wall)
This is a huge, very tall wall located right where the main road crosses the river. You have to take a short path (an ‘approximation track’) to get to it. The routes here are usually pretty long and difficult. It faces southeast, so it gets lots of sun. This spot is actually one of the most famous climbing areas in all of Todra Gorge!
Totxo Tiana
This is just a stone block that sits at the bottom of the Sacred Fish wall, close to where the road goes over the ravine. Since it faces southeast, it gets lovely sunshine all morning long.
Petite Gorge, Rive Gauche (The Small Gorge, West Bank)
This area is about 2 kilometers away from the hotels, right next to the road, and just before you cross the small ravine. It’s one of the most popular places right now because it has routes for every level of climber.
Petite Gorge, Rive Droite (The Small Gorge, Right Bank)
You’ll find this area about 2 km past the hotels, right where the road crosses the river again. The locals call it Amarsit. It’s a great spot because it has routes for all levels, and you get a nice mix of climbs that are either in the sun or in the shade.
Le Chaos (The Chaos)
And last, my favorite evening climb and thats why I added the sunset background haha, This is a small stone block at the bottom of the Sacred Fish wall. It’s right on the edge of the ravine, just past the ford. It’s absolutely perfect for climbing in the evening.